Domaine Hubert de Montille - Pommard Premier Cru - Les Rugiens Bas - 2013 (1.5L)
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Appellation: Pommard Premier Cru
Variety: Pinot Noir
Estate: Domaine de Montille is not only one of the greatest domaines in Burgundy, but one of the greatest domaines in France. With a family heritage that can be traced back to the 17th century and a winemaking heritage rooted in Burgundy since 1750, the de Montilles have become synonymous with their hometown of Volnay. Over the centuries the domaine has seen its fair share of feast and famine. While the original property boasted 12 hectares of vines along the famed Côte d’Or, years of selling off parcels had reduced the family holdings to a mere three hectares. It wasn’t until Hubert de Montille took over in 1947 that the estate started its decades-long path back to glory.
Hubert’s son, Étienne, joined the domaine in 1983, took control of the cellars in 1990, and by 1995, he was co-managing alongside his father. It was that same year that the de Montilles started the slow conversion of the estate to organic farming—a choice which took their old-school “terroirisme” to a whole new level. In 2005, they began implementing biodynamic principles, and in 2012, they earned their official organic certification. In 2006, Hubert’s equally accomplished daughter Alix joined as the winemaker for whites. Gifted businesspeople and vignerons like their father, Étienne and Alix ventured into parallel pastures: in 2003, they also launched DEux Montilles Sœur & Frère, a small négociant, and in 2012, they bought the Château de Puligny-Montrachet which Étienne had been directing since 2001.
Throughout their tenure, Hubert and his children have worked hard to expand the family holdings parcel by parcel. Thanks to their efforts, Domaine de Montille now consists of 20 hectares of land in 20 appellations—with a staggering 75% in premier cru and grand cru vineyards throughout the Côte d’Or.
Tasting Notes: This is also quite restrained with ultra-pure aromas of wet stone, floral hints, sandalwood and very fresh red berry fruit scents.
There is a focused power to the robust yet refined medium-bodied flavors that possess plenty of supporting sap that helps to buffer the otherwise firm and well-integrated tannic spine on the explosively long, balanced and moderately austere finish.
This beauty will require ample patience.